Sunday, April 27, 2008

Living in Akita

Sorry this went up a bit later than expected. I've been busy getting ready for my trip to Hokkaido tomorrow (more on that below). Today's update will focus a bit more on life in Akita and in Japan in general. I'll give a quick overview of my classes, my school activities and plans, and then talk a bit more about what I am devoting my free time with, and talk a bit about some trips into Akita-shi for some fun.

Classes

I am taking 15 credits of classes this semester, which is an average number all around. What is surprising, though, is that those 15 credits comprise only four classes! The classes I am taking are: Elementary Japanese Language, Japanese Politics, Japanese Traditional Performing Arts, and "Samurai and the Sacred."

The Japanese Language course is a whopping 6 credits, and does in fact meet for 6 hours a week (two on Monday and Thursday, one on Tuesday and Friday, and Wednesday is a break). It's a lot of hours, but I would rather it be this way anyway. It means practicing and learning the language that much faster. I am enjoying it immensely, and have been steadily improving conversation skills. My teacher is really fantastic and doesn't mind fielding random cultural questions that come up in our lessons about the language or other customs. It is also easy to retain what I learn because I can put what I learn directly into practice all day. I am trying to use as much Japanese as possible every day. As of today, I can give a brief overview of my background (where I'm from, what my major is, how old I am), as well as comment on the weather, tell time, and count to ten-thousand (in addition to the word for thousand - sen - Japanese has a label for units of ten-thousand - man - but not for a million. A million is hyakuman, or 100 "ten-thousands."). I have started to garner a reputation for greeting everyone I see with enthusiasm, which has earned me some good-natured laughs and jokes, but I know it works. I can also read and write all of the hiragana, and am starting to learn katakana. This is convenient because now I can, at the very least, write and communicate to other Japanese in hiragana, even if I don't know any kanji yet. See my second post for more information on the Japanese script.

My politics class is interesting, if a little slow. My professor is (amazingly) an 80 year old (exactly) Japanese man who currently is President of the Institute for Political Studies in Japan (based in Tokyo). He is known internationally as a facilitator in democratic movements, especially elections. He was recently one of the members overseeing the development of Nepal's first democratic election (which took place recently). He is really nice, though his speech is a bit more...pedestrian (i.e. slow), ha ha. I am really interested in comparing Japanese political structure and environment to the US structure and environment, especially since the Japanese constitution was drafted by the US government at the end of WW II.

The Performing Arts class examines all the traditional art forms in Japan: bunraku, No, gagaku, kabuki, etc. My professor is from England and has been living in Japan for quite some time now. He is very knowledgeable and passionate about the subject, and has an almost theatrical way of presenting the material. The material itself is very interesting, making a lot of connections to Japanese religious traditions and myths. It is all very different from what I have been exposed to in the Western traditions, and I am finding it refreshing and exhilarating.

The last class, "Samurai and the Sacred," feels like it was tailored crafted for my specific interests in Japan. Since I first began looking into Japan, both the samurai and Shinto/Buddhism have been the driving interests, and this class examines both (specifically, how religious traditions mingle with ancient samurai culture and ethics). Right now we are delving into Shinto, which I find fascinating. I will talk at more length about Shinto in future writings. The class itself is full of energy (my professor is also from England and quite eccentric) and the readings are relatively light but interesting. It is tied with my language class as my favorite.

Activities

In addition to my academics, I've joined three different clubs on campus, which have been great ways to meet Japanese students. They are: sado, shodo, and aikido. Sado is the Japanese traditional tea ceremony. The club meets once a week and we practice different types of tea ceremony, though I usually handle serving and will probably not have to learn to do the preparation. The practices are mainly in preparation for a large formal tea party in Senshu-koen that will take place on June 1. I signed up to participate, and will therefore be able to wear a kimono (on loan) and serve tea to the guests (at not charge). I am really excited. The ceremony itself is quite different from anything I've ever seen or experienced. Here's a wikipedia article on the ceremony for more information (also on the sidebar).

Shodo is the Japanese word for calligraphy. It is a lot harder to do than you think. I am far from graceful, but am practicing hard. I thought it was a good idea because once I'm good enough it can be used for cheap but very cool gifts and souvenirs. Calligraphy also meets once a week. Hopefully, once I get better at it, I will share pictures (or actual pieces!) of my calligraphy work with you.

By far, the most exciting activity I am participating in is aikido. Aikido is a Japanese school of martial arts, relatively new (in that it is less than a hundred years old). I had known about aikido back at home, and what has really drawn me to this particular school is the fact that it is the only practice I have encountered that is not only non-confrontational, but also the least harmful to both the practitioner and the opponent. Though almost all martial arts forms are taught primarily as self-defense (that is, not as a way to force people to do what you want), aikido is the least violent (but still incredibly effective) I have seen. The philosophy of the practice is not to defeat or overcome your opponent, but rather to harmonize with your opponent's actions and redirect it into a non-harmful manner. It involves a lot of joint locks, pressure points, pins and grapples/throws. There are (generally speaking) no actual attacks (i.e. there are no punches or kicks or anything like that). In order to practice, you need a partner who will emulate an attack (i.e. try to punch or grab you) so that you can practice a particular technique. It is a lot of fun and very effective. The sensei (teacher or master) is very good (a young Japanese man who appears to be in his early thirties) and is very patient with us. Here is a link to more information on aikido.

Other Activities

Aside from academics and clubs, I have been having fun taking advantage of the library and reading more about Japanese culture and history, as well as books on other topics I am interested in. I am also excited for the library of DVD's and anime that is available, which includes such famous films as Seven Samurai and Shogun, as well as anime by famous directors like Hayao Miyazaki (director of Spirited Away).

I have also enjoyed talking with the other international students, either at meals or on trips to the mall or the city, or just hanging out in the evenings and on the weekends. Akita-shi (Akita city) is a popular excursion destination on the weekends, as it is only thirty minutes away by bus and train (and costs about eight dollars for the round trip). I have been to the city almost every weekend I've been here, and have experienced some of the night life, as well as the park and a random shrine festival taking place in the streets near the train station. Below are some pictures of my friends and some of the trips to the city.

Hanging Out on a Saturday Evening

From the left: Hans Petter (Norway), Conny (Germany). The expressions on their faces are priceless (I love candid shots). From the left: Hans Petter, Conny, Dylan (New Zealand), Maggie (originally Hong Kong, now lives in New Zealand)
From left: Conny, Dylan, Maggie
From left: Maggie, Martin (Korean by birth, but grew up and lives in Denmark), Leo (Austria)

A Night on the Town

A few weeks ago, I went into the city with Hans Petter, Martin and Dylan for a night in the city, which included dinner, a peek into a random concert, and then a trip to the bars. When we were looking for a place to eat, we finally settled on a bar/restaurant mix that looked promising. The establishment served small snack-sized portions grilled meat and other dishes, very much like a Spanish Tapas. Since the menu was all in Japanese, we didn't know what we were ordering exactly, but it turned out to work out quite well. Here are a few pictures:


Restaurant exterior.

The interior was decorated in 1950's era Japanese advertisements and films posters.


Restaurant counter.


What we thought was grilled fished turned out to be, literally, grilled fish. It wasn't too bad, actually, if a bit salty, though I couldn't bring myself to eat the head, as evidenced by the next picture:

Martin had no qualms of finishing it off for me, though...

We thought this dish was going to be squid, but it turned out to be kielbasa sausage cut to look like squid with coleslaw and sparklers...pretty hilarious, actually.

Hans Petter and Dylan across the table.

My right-hand man Martin (eater of fish heads).

Hans Petter attempting (unsuccessfully) to assume a serious pose.

After dinner we decided to check out a live band concert that we saw advertised in the city. When we arrived (around 9:30) we saw the last half of the final number of the final band (it had started around 6:00pm). We found this to be a bit surprising and funny, but ended up talking with the band members as they greeted their fans. They were all in their early 30's, and are based out of Tokyo. Their English wasn't that great, and our Japanese wasn't any better, but we hit it off right away and decided to go for drinks afterwards. We ended up going to the same restaurant as before; again, pretty hilarious. We had some more food, some more beer (I chose water this round) and warm sake (I did choose to partake):


We got a waiter to take a picture of the whole gang outside the restaurant. From left to right: Hans Petter, Martin, Tsuji, Makoto, Kumako, Dylan, Me.


The kielbasa octopuses came back with a vengeance...

Makoto (bass guitarist) and Kumako (drummer) explaining the intricacies of Japanese language to an enthralled Dylan.


Hans Petter looking stylish in Tsuji's (lead singer) sunglasses.

The Tokyo band, CAMELMAC (Tsuji, Kumako, Makoto).



This past weekend, I was in Akita-shi with Hans Petter and Leo for some errands, and in the streets just past the major city train station, we almost literally ran into a Shinto procession, for some festival I was not aware of celebrated by one of the dozens of shrines in the city. Here are some pictures:






And finally, one of the last perks of making a visit to the city is grabbing a dinner of sushi!


At the ridiculously good price of 680 yen (about $6.80) this "bento box" was one of the best meals I've had in a long time.

Wrap Up

That's about it for today. On the sidebar you will see the addition of two more albums, Akita Friends and Akita-shi Excursion 4-12. I will be continuously adding pictures to the Akita Friends Album as the weeks go on (I will let you know when I update it). Right now it's hard because a lot of our plans are kind of spur of the moment, and I've only had my camera on me for a few occasions. I am trying to get more and more pictures, so stay tuned.

This week is "Golden Week" in Japan. There are a couple of national holidays in quick succession of each other, so most Japanese have the whole week off as vacation, and our school is no exception. Because there is so much traveling and sight-seeing taking place, prices for accommodations and travel are a bit more expensive. Instead of heading south to Tokyo, Kyoto, Osaka or Okinawa as is very popular, a group of seven of us are heading north to Hokkaido to visit Sapporo for a few days. I may or may not put a post up this Wednesday, it depends on how things are going. I will definitely post again in a week's time with an update on the trip, and hopefully many pictures.

In the mean time, I wish you all the best, and look forward to sharing with you my adventures up North!


Wednesday, April 23, 2008

Senshu Park

I am going to be adding a post on Wednesday as I have time, mainly to feature a general topic or place. This will not be every Wednesday, but Sunday will definitely be a regular updating day. If you missed my post this past Sunday, check out the Archive section on the right sidebar, where you can access all of the articles I've written to date.

Today's Feature Post will center around Senshu-koen, the large park located just past the JR Station in Akita-shi (Akita city) (about a five minute walk). I visited Senshu-koen on two occasions; the first on my first trip to Akita-shi a few weeks ago, and then again just this past weekend for the Hanami Matsuri (cherry-blossom viewing festival). The park itself is quite large, and covers the historic grounds of an ancient castle. The castle is mostly gone now, with only a few reconstructed buildings including a gate house and guardhouse. More interesting to me were the three Shinto shrines located here. Additionally, there are a few small art museums on location, as well as a tea house (for sado, tea ceremony) and a public library.

The park is very large, and somewhat hilly so it was a minor work-out to get around. But there were very pleasant courtyards and pavilions. It's a shame the park is somewhat far from campus (I have to take a bus and train, but all in all it's only thirty minutes travel time), but it is definitely a nice place to visit on the weekends. With the weather as nice as it is right now, I look forward to taking strolls in the park with my friends in the upcoming weekends.

Before getting too far ahead of myself, here is the link to the pictures I took on my first trip to Senshu-koen. You will see some monuments which I unfortunately cannot translate for you, but they are incredibly beautiful nonetheless, some made of stone and others of wood. At this point in time, the cherry blossoms (sakura) had not yet begun to bloom, so many trees were bare. This afforded pretty clear views of some of the buildings, including the Gate House and Guard House. Below I will post some pictures of the park; please follow the above link (also on the sidebar "Senshu-koen") for the complete collection:

A stone monument.


A magnificent wooden monument.

A friend of mine told me that this monument is dedicated to those died in the firefighting profession.

A pond.



The gate house from below the hill.

The gate house again, this time straight on.


Osumi-yagura "Tower of Former Kubota Castle"


This former guard tower is now reconstructed as a small museum. It costs 100 yen (about a dollar) to get in, and there is a lot of information about the historic castle grounds. Below are a few pictures of the interior of the tower-museum.




A model of the historic castle grounds. The small black sticks are names for the different buildings.




Some artifacts from the old building, including shingles and other architecture.

A display showcasing a small army procession.




There were also some videos and other displays, including a time line of the Castle's history, but everything was in Japanese so I didn't learn much, unfortunately. However, on the fourth (top) floor of the tower, there was a spectacular view of Akita-shi, which I will share with you below:










There were also, as I mentioned before, three Shinto shrines on sight. You can see the pictures in the albums. However, I will make a dedicated feature article solely on Shinto in the near future, so I am going to hold off on saying anything about it for right now. At this point, just enjoy the pictures. This one's my favorite:


Sakura, Hanami, Matsuri

Before I share with you my pictures of the park during the festival this past Sunday, I wanted to briefly talk about the three terms I have written above. I am in no way an expert in Japanese culture or history, so please take the following as a very rough explanation.

Sakura is the Japanese word for "cherry blossom." Sakura is one of the many things that is associated with Japan (along with the samurai and other things). The Japanese cherry trees are unique in that they have a very short blooming period; often the flowers last only a week before falling and giving rise to fruit. In addition, sakura are very beautiful and delicate. In the Japanese mind, sakura is often associated with the fragility and ephemeral beauty of life itself. They also figure prominently in bushido ethos as the samurai were generally prone to very short life-spans indeed.

Because sakura bloom for such a short time, it is a favorite past time of all Japanese to take time to view these beautiful blossoms and contemplate the nature of living and dying. This past time of viewing cherry blossoms is called hanami. What is interesting about sakura is that because Japan spans a few latitudes across the globe, there is a wave effect of sakura blooming in the south and moving northwards as those colder regions warm up. By the time that Akita sakura began blooming, Tokyo's sakura were well past their time. It is possible to enjoy hanami on numerous occasions if you follow the blossoming season northwards. In fact, many of my friends who stayed in Tokyo before heading to Akita did just that. I will be visiting Hokkaido, the northernmost island of Japan in just a week, so I may get a chance to experience hanami for a second time.

Finally, matsuri means "festival" in Japanese. The Senshu-koen Hanami Matsuri is a minor festival, with a collection of food stalls, a dancing stage, and crowds of people having picnics. Most larger matsuri involve some type of religious ritual (like carrying a kami (god) through the streets within a small temple box) with much dancing, singing, food, and revelry. I have yet to experience one of these more grand festivals which are numerous in Japan, but the smaller Hanami Matsuri was quite pleasant.

Below are some pictures of sakura as well as Senshu-koen during the festival.

Sakura



Senshu-koen Hanami Matsuri

Notice the fully bloomed sakura on the top of the picture in the background.






A traditional Japanese dance celebrating the fishing harvest.


The pond that you can see in my other Senshu-koen album was filled with sakura petals.


For whatever reason, I find Japanese children to be even more adorable than American children. This girl was patiently waiting for her new stuffed animal to be wrapped up.



There was a group of five of us who went to the park, two international students (including myself) and three Japanese students. Going in a group means I have to suffer being in the picture myself, ha ha. The pond in the above picture is in the background.





Here's the guard house again through the fully bloomed sakura.


You can see the matsuri, sakura, and Akita-shi (Akita city) in the background in this picture.


To see the complete collection of pictures from the Hanami Matsuri, click here. It is also on the sidebar ("Senshu-koen Hanami Matsuri"). The matsuri was quite nice, and felt similar to many other little festivals you can find in the states. The food was different but delicious. I got myself some sweet-potato fries, which were enormous and delicious. There were all sorts of toys and trinkets available, but fortunately I was short on cash so I didn't blow much money on the over-priced niceties. The park itself was beautiful, thought at times it was hard to fully appreciate it with all of the people there. It was fun bumping into people and having short conversations in basic Japanese. My Japanese friends also taught me a lot of new words and I did the same for them in English. All in all, it was a great time.

And this pretty much concludes my feature article on Senshu Park! I hope you enjoy the pictures. Stop by this Sunday for another update. See you then!